Hello there! Today I will be hopefully going over some of the reasons a O2 sensor may cause your car to turn off as I just had to work on one myself.

On most vehicles there are at least 2 oxygen sensors the upstream (before the catalytic converter) and the downstream (after the catalytic converter).

Anyway oxygen sensors will eventually need to be replaced on all vehicles it just depends on the year of the car. There is a few signs that I will go over so that we can tell if the car needs a new O2 sensor.

In many cases the first thing noticeable is the decreased fuel economy. A bad O2 sensor will cause the air-fuel mixture ratio to be incorrect. So the car may be running to rich (rich: meaning the engine is receiving too much fuel and too little air.) Which will directly impact the fuel system.

Engine light

Next we have a Blinking check engine light the illuminates or another indicator lamp on your dash. This may be one of the reasons the check engine light is one which in some cases it is.

Another way to tell if there is a bad O2 sensor is a failure to pass the smog test. In the EPA(Environmental Protection Agency) and our happy CARP(California Air Resource Board) 50ish to 60% of all the smog tests and emission test related failure are caused by the defective oxygen sensors. Which may cause really low or really high CO emissions.

Another way is poor performance such as rough idling. Example: when car is running in park and it feels like rumbling and one low RPM from dying.

Stalling is another that is mixed into the rough idling. When the car is running and RPM dips then goes back up to stop the car from dying.

The best way to tell if the vehicle is using a code reader that has a OBD2 checker. Cars from 1996 and up area required to have this interface in their systems.

A code reader with this feature will show you the defects in the cars exhaust system. If the oxygen sensor has failed you. The code will show up if you do a live test or just check through the modules.

Well I hope this helps out it is not much but these are the main causes that an O2 sensor is starting to fail or is failing. Thank you so much for reading this it means a lot!

Here we are going to be talking about the hopeful pros and cons on having a muffler delete stick around to find out.


Mufflers are meant to help keep emissions to a minimal and to keep the vehicle as quite as possible.

Cost efficient

While we talk about the potential benefits of the muffler delete pros and cons the cost effective way is to use. This device is to make sure that the exhaust pipe is running to about factory specs or better.

The best part is the muffler can always be replaced because of the accessibility.

Horsepower improved

The muffler that comes with a vehicle decreases a cars performance. When the muffle delete occurs the performance increases.

This also helps mainly because there is nothing blocking the exhaust path or any crap clogging the exhaust pipe.

This is true to many older cars that were built 20 or so years ago. Removing the muffler will increase the exhaust air flow while letting the engine back pressure still being good.

Many older style mufflers are more closed off than the modern mufflers of today. So this is a understandable reason as to why muffler deletes provide a benefit to older cars.

This makes the American Muscle come out in a car but the specs for the horsepower and torque that are gained are quite the treat.

Overall this is not true if we are talking about modern cars. More car brands are making mufflers that have improved exhaust flow without the satisfying noise.

In many cases doing a muffler delete will only give the sound and nothing extra to the vehicle. Also now that it is a newer car it may go into ECU or LIMP mode and a check engine light may occur.

Roaring lion

The main reason people want to remove their muffler is for that crisp sound. The sound of the engine while driving gets better with a muffler delete.

Now a muffler delete will open in the inner aura of the exhaust system. The air rushing through the exhaust will come out loud and aggressive.

Most people like myself get addicted to the sound of the exhaust when the pedal goes to the metal. The crackling afterwards is to die for but now be careful.

Most people do not like modified exhausts especially my neighbors. Nobody will appreciate a straight piped car roaring around early in the morning.


When you begin to dust people with the improved horsepower. More people will begin to notice the clean rear end of the vehicle. No muffler hanging out below making the car irresistible and perfect just as you wanted.

Another great thing is that a muffler ways a good 20-30 pounds so now it may not seem like a lot, but that will take some stress off the vehicle.


Why are you booing of course there is harm to muffler deletes…or is there?

Noise control

As the acceleration increases the sound gets to be more satisfying but, the muffle delete system will also start a very noticeable droning sound at normal speeds.

A straight pipe drone can get super annoying that will cause the NVH tuning of the interior. You will not be pleased on longer drives.

The idling cry

If you cut out a muffler or remove it from a modern day car this will cause the ECU chip to go crazy. Making the performance go bad and terrible idle.

This can be avoided if you purchase a Catback exhaust system, Higher flow muffler or a Tune chip to make up for the lost muffler. If the muffler just gets sawed off there will be major issues in the near future.


The place where the muffler is cut may cause an issue. A straight pipe will leave you will a lot of gunk and dirt. The best part is this gunk may be able to mess with paint on your vehicle so make sure to stay up on cleaning the muffler.


At the end of the day the exhaust is better off performance wise. If a muffler delete occurs do it in a way so that the performance is saved. If the performance is not stick away from doing it unless there is a better option. Mufflers deletes are good for sound don’t get it wrong but be careful on how or where you do it.

Thank you for reading it means a lot and goes a long way!

Hello today we will be going over what is going on when the vehicle is reaching high speeds and begins to shake.


So has your car been shaking so much to the point where you though you were at sea? Well here we are hopefully going to go over why this occurs and maybe a way to fix this issue.

If the vehicle begins to shake chance is the suspension on the vehicle is out of alignment. Which may in many cases cause the vehicle to vibrate at certain speeds.

Now this shaking may also occur at the slower speeds of a vehicle as well, but more likely to happen at freeway speeds. A bad alignment may be induced by potholes, hitting curbs which may cause things to give in the suspension.

When that happens some of the suspension bushings could potentially become a problem. To check if the cars alignment is off the best way is to take it to a shop.

Tire rotation

So another reason could be that the tires are unevenly worn out on the vehicle. Which in many cases could cause the vehicle to vibrate at higher speeds.

Tires that are worn can happen if there is a bad alignment or something wrong in suspension. This could cause the vibration to get even worse at higher speeds. If it happens the tires are worn badly get a shop to look into replacing them so the roller coaster ride goes away.

Suspension bushings

Another problem that may be causing the vibration at higher speeds are worn out bushings. Like ball joints and the control arm bushings. My girlfriend who had an infiniti G35 had the control arms go out and it is not cheap.

Make sure if you have this problem to get the vehicle into a shop to inspect the suspension. That way the problem can be figured out and solved.

Wheel life

The reason this is important information to take in is that bumps and cubs can cause things to be bent. If they become bent they will cause the car to shake at higher speeds.

In some cases you can get a visual inspection done on the wheel which isn’t the most accurate. The best way to check if the wheel is damaged or bent is through a road force/ balance machine.

Suspension parts like control arms and tie rods can become bent from potholes and curbs. Some other things like a minor accident may cause this as well.

Those may cause the car to vibrate at the higher speeds and maybe even some lower speeds. Warped rotors may cause this as well, but only when brakes are applied. Make sure that the brakes aren’t bad as well as this may make the vibration worse if the brakes are also bad.

This is because when the brakes are applied the messed up rotor is working against it to make the braking harder. If this is happening replace the rotors for a better braking and stopping speed.


Overall when the vehicle you own starts to have a death wobble or in general shake the car where your going into hyper drive. Go get it checked out by a mechanic to save your time and the money wasted if you just go and buy new tires. To add to that an alignment cannot be done unless a mechanic does it because they have the specialized machines to do it. You can do a tire rotation but if that doesn’t work take it to a mechanic.

Thank you for reading my blog it goes a long way.

Hello there I will be going over the pros and cons of installing a cold air intake on a vehicle. Such as looks performance and other complications and or benefits that may occur.

What is a cold air intake?

A cold air intake is a step up from the basic air manifold. Now this step up you remove the manifold from the engine bay and begin to replace with a nicer and bigger cold air intake.

The main thing this will do is move it farther away from the engine to get colder air into the system so the colder air allows more fuel to be burned which is why you feel better acceleration.

A cold air intakes main job is to take air into the engine. Starting through the air filter which is now open and then through the intake. Which continues throughout the throttle body depending on the car you have(If you have turbo inlet hose on a turbo charged vehicle).

The cold air intake will help get a better combustion in the system because of the colder air coming into the system.

Pros of the cold air intake

The cold air intake you buy should be able to achieve more power do to the factor of being moved further away from the engine bay. Now that is out of the engine bay and closer to the fender it tends to point closer towards the ground instead of up.

Well there is a reason behind most cold air intakes being pointed downwards. Everyone should know the term heat rises so doing this will make sure the cold air intake gets the coldest air possible.

Now that the air is cooler the air coming in is denser than before this is crucial to remember about the filter placement when buying one.

So the filter gets put further out and now the air is being brought in colder more fuel can be burned so the power on the throttle exceeds previous manifold.

Cons of the cold air intake

Most of the time the cold air intake will get denser air than a normal intake manifold. The manifold direction is important the further out the more costly it gets.

The more of a path that needs to be taken leads to a more difficult installation process. The greatest weakness is the location of the cold air intake which in return is also the greatest strength of it.

Having a filter that is outside the engine bay is great for the better hp and denser air coming in. The location of the air filter is the issue in most cases it gets placed where the most debris and moisture are present.

Lets say you live in an area where snow and or water are present. If that hits a cold air intake and gets sucked into the intake there may be massive issues. To start the engine will start acting weird and will eventually seize depending on the amount of water that was pushed through the intake.

So now that you know an intake is further out the benefits may out way the cons it just depends on where you live and how you drive.


Now I myself have a cold air intake on my Gmc sierra it improved my gas mileage and engine performance. I myself have had snow on my intake but just got it off with my hands. I believe a cold air intake is the best thing you can buy as an aftermarket piece for any vehicle. Literally will pay for itself in a year or two for the amount of gas mileage that will go up. My truck originally got 12-13mpg then I reset to get a whopping 16-17mpg(in summer) in the winter it goes down to around 15mpg. At the end of the day this is a big saver in the long run. Thank you for reading this means a lot.

Hello today I will be going over exhaust wrap. The kind that you would use to try and stop the heat from escaping the headers on the car.

What is exhaust wrap?

Exhaust wrap is a tight wrap that will cool down the engine of the vehicle when wrapped around the headers. This is mainly used on high power engines such as street cars like my 1983 cutlass supreme with the 350 in it.


That picture shows the passenger side of the engine bay. Notice that when putting this on do not put it on loosely otherwise it will not insulate the heat correctly.

Another thing I did not know is that you should soak them in water before putting the wrap on. It makes the wrap tighter and when you start the engine it doesn’t smell burnt right away because it is basically molding to the headers.


If you would to get the exhaust wrap I got that exact one for my cutlass it works great just wish I knew to get it wet first.

Heat of the engine bay

Now that we have gone over the exhaust wrap we should go over the different types of heat that could be causing the engine bay to be so hot.

First we have something called Radiant heat is when a hot part radiates heat to another part that is not directly touching it.

Great example my spark plugs were starting to melt because of how hot the headers were getting so I actually put the wrap on both(do not get spark plug wraps wet they are just slip on).

Then we have Convective heat which is when a part overheats because of the contact of a hot liquid or gas. This could be pointed towards a radiator overheating because not enough liquid so it gets extremely hot with the little amount it has in it.

Lastly we have Conductive heat which is when heat travels from one part to another through direct contact. Such as from the engine to the headers throughout the exhaust.

Now that the basic forms of heat have been introduced lets talk about the right way to go about this. So now we need to find the correct heat products for the vehicle we have some options but there is always pros and cons to any kind of heat solutions.

Such as a solution fort Radiant heat issues will not help in this case solve the problems with conductive heat. Make sure the product you get is right for you.

Temperature of the engine

Now going over all of this you need to know what product you are going to get. The wraps all have different temperatures that can withstand heat.

Don’t buy some cheap heat wrap and watch it only hold up until the engine has now gotten warm then the heat wrap does little to no good because it was a cheap brand not being able to withstand what you wanted.

Most brands will have the heat temperature label on the back and will say how well they are able to resist. In my eyes if you want it done correctly just get the highest heat resistant then you have nothing to worry about.

Materials in the wrap

Now to determine the correct exhaust wrap make sure the wrap you are using is correct for the situation at hand. Make sure to check out the rand of products and the difference in the thermal wrap also material.

Some of the materials are

Basalt, Fiberglass, Stainless steel, Aluminum, Silica.

Out of these make sure that the choice you make is right for the car.

Wrap looks

Now in some cases the wrap could provide a clean look underneath the hood with a roaring engine. That is not the only case these wraps main purpose should be to give the car a better chance at performance.

With the exhaust wrap it could help gain better gas mileage, boost in horsepower and in torque, lower the emissions, and may also extend the engines lifespan.


Now we have gone over the basics of the exhaust wrap. Make sure that the wrap you choose is the one best suited for the situation at hand. I suggest getting the best heat resistant so that you know the best is on there and have no worries at all.

That should conclude the pros and cons of the exhaust wrap the only real cons is if you want to change the headers then that all has to be undone and maybe the style of the engine but that is all. Thank you for reading this and I hope it helps in the journey into maintaining your own vehicle.

Hello everyone today I will be going over how you can get the steering wheel straight. Such as my Grand am that needs an alignment.


Well more than likely the car may just need an alignment to get the tires back onto the right path. Which means the Cast and Camber may have to be modified to the correct specs.

So to correct the steering you or a mechanic will have to move the tie rods to the degree so that they are within 10 degrees of each other.

Doing this will make sure that the tires will be going into the correct direction. This will eliminate any pulls from left to right not getting an alignment may cause more serious problems such as excessive tire wear.

May also cause the fuel economy to go down a bit. Other serious problems may occur such as dog tracking when the rear end of the vehicles frame begins to shift in the direction the tires pulls.

In that case you may have serious problems so if the steering wheel or a pull is present get it checked as soon as possible.

Steering wheel

The steering wheel of a vehicle connects to a column that is a pinion which I will just naturally say “Rack and Pinion“. This is because the Pinion connects with the rack which is a flat bar with matching teeth to connect.

When the steering wheel turn the pinion pushes into the rack depending on the direction right or left. Then to break it down even more the rack connects to the tie rods.

The tie rods connect to the upper/lower control arms which then connects the brace for the wheel and so fourth.

On tie rods they are threaded into the rack and pinion area which will in case affect Cast when you undo the thread for the alignment.

So the question is what does all of this do in the fact for making the steering wheel straight? As of right now it doesn’t first we need to make sure the care is going straight before just moving the steering wheel into the correct spot.

Well now we can move onto the rear end of the vehicle.

Adjusting rear toe and steering direction

In this case most vehicles will have a bar running towards the end of the vehicle. If you are not sure google it or ask a trusted mechanic that you know.

Now the rear end also has its own tie rods that do the same if not more work than the front ones of your vehicle. The main difference that is easily distinguishable between the two is that this only turns the rear end of the vehicle.

If there is a problem with the rear alignment it will cause steering wheel to be off by a lot. For example both the rear tires want to move a couple degrees left. Well you’ll have to hold the steering wheel a little right to compensate for that causing it to be off.

Fixing the steering.

So after all of that you may be wondering will this really fix my steering? yes if not well talk to the mechanic who was working on the car to help give a better idea to the problem.

I do not recommend this but if you want the steering wheel straight a mechanic can take it off (may take some time) and place it directly in the middle.

I would only suggest that if everything is correct for the Cast,Camber, and Toe. Then it would make total sense to do so.


If the steering is off in the vehicle I recommend bringing a local shop nearby. The amount of issues that may be present could be a lot depending on how long this has been put off.

Such as Tie rod bend,Lower/upper control arms broken,Cast,Camber,Toe, Rack and pinion, etc. The list can go on but im sure that the point has been made.

Just made sure to say the issues you have with the steering and how long it has been going on and they will fix it.

Anyway after reading this I hope that I have given some useful information on how to fix the steering wheel with certain areas of the car or just bringing it to a shop to deal with.

I greatly appreciate if you have gotten this far please check out my other blogs thank you!

Today I will be going over why people may not have brake pressure when pushing on the brake pedal. Will go over possible answers and course of action depending on what kind of pressure it may be.

To start with this if the brake pedal goes all the way down to the floor and you feel like there is little to no braking check the fluid level. There may not be enough fluid to push it all the way through the system.

If the fluid is low top it off and pump the brakes a few times to see it that did the trick or not. If not go look at the fluid again to see if it is lower than what you filled it up to (may vary in case if you had no fluid). If so you may have a leak in the brake system.

Which could be very dangerous leading to the fact that you currently do not have a lot of pressure in the system. So with this situation you are going to need to figure out if there’s a leak or just air in the system.

Well in case you think there is air in the system I have already posted a blog in detail on how to bleed the brakes on a car unless you wanna take it to a mechanic.

That link will lead you the viewer to my other post which will tell you about bleeding your brakes.

Anyway if the pressure is gone because of a leak have someone sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes while another person looks for the leak. There should be an area that is leaking around the Caliper most likely.

Replacing a brake line(hose)

So if you have found a leak in the system pray it is a hose and not the actual brake line. If it is a brake line this could cost around 100$-500$ by a shop for it to be done and legal.

If it is a hose that should be an easy 20$ fix on your own. If the hose is the issue all you have to do is drain the fluid you have into a bucket if you want to reuse.

Next then replace the bad hose after all the fluid has been drained out so you can properly put on the line without worrying about losing any fluid or doing it super quick.

Once installed just throw the old hose in the garbage and put either new fluid or the old fluid. Me personally might as well put in new brake fluid so that you do not have to worry about the old fluid being bad.


The master cylinder within the caliper may also be going bad if you see no leaks or fluid going out.

The master cylinder may be pushing air into the lines so that is another reason there may not be any pressure.

There may also be a case where the cylinder may be old and the seals are worn out so it does not compress when you push onto the brakes. In this case you will need to replace the master cylinders for the caliper.

Then the pistons should get pressure while pushing on the brakes giving you better pedal resistance than it had currently.


Overall brakes are very important. If the vehicle you are driving has no pressure the brakes are not working do not drive it because you could be held liable if the problem was there and you got into a car crash.

At the end of the day brakes are not something to take lightly this is life and death scenario if your brakes don’t work you could be held liable if that vehicle gets into an accident etc.

Just make sure if the brakes are acting weird to either do it yourself the day of. Or let it sit until a mechanic can take a look at what the problem may be.

Thank you for reading my blog and I hope this will help you understand more about keeping things up to date on your vehicle.

Hello today I shall be going over which brakes will happen to go out first on a vehicle. Then talk about the importance of brakes and so fourth.


Well what are brakes? They are the what helps the vehicle come to a complete stop. There are two brakes on each rotor so overall there are 8 brakes on your vehicle.

Well when do you know the brakes are going bad? Many cases when you push the brake and you can hear it screeching is the main way to tell if your brakes are going out. The screeching is from the metal on metal contact from the brakes to the rotors. This only happens when the brakes are worn to the point of being absolutely useless.

In most cases the brakes that will go out first are the front brakes. There is no telling which side will need them first but if you decide you need new brakes do both sides and not just the one.

The reason behind the front brakes going out first is because the front brakes do 70-80% of the braking of the vehicle. The back brakes do about 20-30% so they will take a lot longer to wear down compared to the front brakes.

How to change my own brakes?

Well first of all you will need a jack. Then find the frame underneath and start jacking it up so that you can free the tire that you will be working on. Then once that has been accomplished proceed to take off the tire. You’ll need an impact to do so keeping that in mind take off all of the lug nuts. Put them in a safe area so they do not get lost.

Then take off the tire this may require some grunting as most tires are heavy such as my truck tire. Then once you have gotten it off time to look around to see if your rotor is good and if your brakes are bad.

Then once you have done that take out the Caliper bolts these will be tight be careful not to bust a knuckle while pushing on the ratchet. Then once you have gotten the two Caliper bolts out take off the Caliper make sure to have a bungee cord to hold up the Caliper.

Once you have the bungee cord make sure the Caliper is not pulling the brake line you want it up and free so that it is not in the way while working.

Then now you should be able to take off the Caliper bracket to check the brakes. Now how to check if the brakes are bad here is a picture to show that the brakes are bad.

5 Symptoms of Bad or Worn Brake Pads (You Shouldn't Ignore)

For this the left side is the brand new brake pad the right is worn down and useless. If the line in the middle is no longer engraved you need new brakes if you look closely on the right side that is actually metal not the ceramic mixture that brakes are made of.

So that brake pad has been bad for awhile now because of the scrapes you can see from the rotor to brake.

Replacing brakes.

Now to put the brakes back in just do the same steps but backwards. New brake pads go in but before you do that you have to push in the Caliper pistons.


So do this by grabbing one of the new brake pads and push it in all the way to ensure the new brakes can get on.

Once that has been accomplished you can put the brakes on with the Caliper bracket. Make sure the nuts are tight (not to tight they may snap) Then proceed to put the Caliper back on after pushing back the pistons of course. Once it is on then tighten the bolts and the brakes are now changed! Put the tire back on and make sure its tight lower the jack and the car is set to go.

Last thing make sure to pump those brakes the pistons need to move inward with pressure so if you finish this and start driving your brakes will need a couple pumps before they work so lets avoid a accident by pumping them now.

Anyway today I have gone over how to tell if a brake is bad and how to change them as a future mechanic I hope this information will help you further understand cars and why maintenance is important see you next time thank you for reading my blog.

Today I am going to go over the worst Motor oils to put into your engine. Well you may be thinking well its just oil why does this matter? Well for you and I that’s what i’m explaining today.

Liberty Motor Oil

So as we all know you need oil in your car no matter what. Well in this case we are going to find out what oils not to put in.

With Liberty oil this brand says promising results but in reality it doesn’t meet them.

This oil has a viscosity level 70% requirement. Which is ridiculous and should not be sold in any store. To add to this Liberty motor oil contains more volatility than allowed…Because that is increased the evaporation rated increases so then it’ll just burn inside your engine therefore wasting money.

There are additives in this oil but after some research it has been known to have a lower level of additive in a single quart.

Overall this oil is straight garbage I have no idea who would ever want to buy this.

Petrola Motor oil

This brand is misleading to the customer potentially wanting to buy this product it has wrong information all over the container.

So the labels have incorrect readings which means you shouldn’t buy this product you have no idea what else could go wrong.

Anyway this brand also is know to provide a level way below for the viscosity for the user. Which is scary to know this if you have been putting this motor oil into your car. I’m pretty sure nobody has I have personally stuck to one oil which we can get to later.

This oil is meant for vehicles made after the 1930s which is almost a century now you gotta think that this oil wouldn’t work. This oil will cause great damage to the vehicle making it a bad motor making your car off to the junk yard.

Xpress Lube pro

This is a brand that has just no reputation left to begin with. This motor oil does not meet the SAE grade requirement for SAE motor oils.

This brand of oil has promised that it has the SAE amount in but the tests given with this motor oil will make you fall out of your chair.

This assumption is broad but most drivers don’t use older vehicles anymore if I do say so by watching the cars while I drive. The main point is this oil can’t even be used in modern day models the elements in this oil have been found to be harmful that you should be away from.

The fake labeling on this should just be a immediate turn away for this brand. They promise to serve the required specifications but never have met them.


This so called quality motor oil brand has ensured premium motor oil in their product. Which in this case was morally just wrong to lie.

Anyway there is no premium quality material in the labeled oil the only thing premium about this was the premium damage it will do to your engine.

There is also harmful substances so that’s another no no. Also even if you wanted to try to use this brand can\’t even use it in the newer cars.

Yet again we have another motor oil who says they meet the viscosity grade yet they never have and never will. The only promise made here is the cold crank is at -13degrees which is terrible for people in MN that is like a monday in december.

Quaker stat Q

This motor oil is a very misleading and has false information as well. Looking at the product you can see different labeling on the body of the Quaker product.

The specifications of this product has promises to have are no the ones you want and or need. They claim they have them multi-viscosity motor oil yet it really doesn’t don’t be trapped with this bullcrap.

Using this in a new car you’d basically just be giving the junkyard its new inmate because that is where the car will be headed after its next drive.

Furthermore it has not even close to the necessary additives for the vehicle. The engine will run like it is out of oil rough and hard. Basically it is not even oil at this point.


After reading all of this you probably never even heard of any of these oils. Well I’d like to say lets keep it that way bit you already read the article.

To understand you should always stick to a recommended brand by a O’reilly employee and your mechanic that way you don’t have to beat yourself up over a wrong choice.

Most motor oils out in stores today are good and there to help actually make your vehicle run unlike these garbage oils.

In the event that I need oil I have always used Mobil 1. I use 5W-30 synthetic with dexos on the label to ensure the best performance I can get from my GMC Sierra.

Also I know I did not mention it me personally I do not recommend using Fram motor oil or filters to me presentation is just terrible. At the end of the day you have better options like Royal purple at that point.


So this is to go over the important things this article is getting across. First do not use motor oil that a well known car store (O’reilly) would sell you. Second before you start looking for the best motor oil to put in your car make sure to consult your mechanic I cannot know what certain cars want for performance etc. So make sure to find a good brand to stick with to keep your vehicle running strong. Third after you found the oil you want to move forward with make sure you know all the pros and cons cause Mobil 1 to me is just the best overall brand for daily drivers. Overall just make sure the oil you choose is right for you and this shall wrap up the worst oil debate or so I hope.

Here we are with another can you mix antifreeze article. I think I have said it enough but just to hammer that nail into your skull with the rest of the nuts and bolts. I do not recommend mixing any coolants the only coolant is the one straight from the jug that is currently already in you car.

Green antifreeze

The antifreeze that is green like the shamrock shake. Doesn’t have the same smell but that’s besides the point. This formula is a little older than the rest kind of like Doc hudson in lightning mcqueen. This formula is mainly meant for those older cars because they need the IAT. Which the green antifreeze is made of with some special tweaks to help prevent radiator from the corrosion of metals and inside of the cooling system.

Green antifreeze is mainly used in the vehicles manufactured before the year 2000 which these older cars were made with tons of steel and copper compared to the newer cars today.

Green antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol like basically the founding father of antifreeze used in almost the very beginning. In that case it did not replace the Ethylene oxide until 1937. In this era of time this was like the only coolant around so you actually had to mix it with water properly to make it work. Then it would be good for 3 years.

Blue antifreeze

The blue antifreeze provides OEM extended life which extends past the performance requirements. This coolant is very protective towards rust and corrosion in the coolant system. It also provides extraordinary high temperature aluminum protection.

The blue coolant has been made to be used in the Infiniti,Nissan,Mazda and Mitsubishi vehicles. It has a anti corrosion long life coolant meant to last at least a 5 year time period in the radiator before needing a change. The blue coolant has small difference in case for these rather than one meant for Nissan and Mazda.

Mixing Blue and Green antifreeze

You can mix these two kinds of coolants together. Yet again I will say not to change what the manual says and mix it because coolant is not meant to be mixed or they would sell it to us. Overall some Hondas can do this I do not recommend it but if you wanna chance it go for it.

Coolant is key

Remember coolant is what keeps the car from overheating so it is very important to know how to check the coolant in your car.

If you have never checked your coolant this is the time to shine. Look into your car manual and do some reading. Once the location of the coolant reservoir has been established time to figure out if it is filled up.

To check if the coolant is full all you have to do is just see where the line is on the reservoir and make sure it is at full and not below min. If the coolant line is below minimum go get your coolant from the nearest O’reilly and they will be with open arms to help you figure out what kind of coolant you need to put into your car.

Then once you have the coolant pour it in until it is at the full line then boom its full. Keep the extra coolant somewhere incase you ever have to use it again.


Here we are talking about mixing coolants this idea to me is very bad. Just stick to what is currently in your car or ask the mechanic that has been servicing the car. They will tell you flat out to not mix coolant there’s no point to chancing the car when the product is so easily obtainable. At the end of the day just put in the recommended coolant to avoid a headache.